Strange Religion E5 6a Craig y Forwyn

Glenda Huxter on the second ascent of Strange Religion.

Nick Bullock on the first ascent of Strange Religion.

Nick Bullock on the first ascent of Strange religion.

Strange Religion E5 6a ***

Nick Bullock, Glenda Huxter, Zylo, Dave Towse 16/7/23

22m. A direct and physical line following the overhanging, left-hand side of the Imminent Crisis wall, passing several small overhangs before finishing directly, up the headwall, to the right of the arête and to the left of Imminent Departees.

After a committing start, there is excellent, but hard-won gear for the whole of the route.

Start a few metres left of the starting corner of Imminent Crisis/Departees, at the blunt arête beneath a short crack and small hanging slab.

Pull up, using the positive, pocketed crack, and after a few moves, a shallow corner at the top of the hanging slab beneath a large overhang, is reached. There is some small and fiddly gear here that may steady the nerve. A few awkward, and committing moves right (poor footholds), enable the overhang to be passed, until after a few more moves up, find you stood beneath a small overhang. Pull directly over this overhang until beneath another overhang! Pull strenuously over this, to reach a good break. Pull directly through, yet another overhang on good, but quite difficult to spot holds, making your way slightly right up a vague scoop and the best rest on the route, beneath (yes, you’ve guessed it), another overhang. Pull the roof direct. Once established on the headwall, a jink left, then, just before you get tempted too far left, another back right, passing the obvious mono-pocket, enables you to reach a small corner with fine holds and a peg (very good, traditional blade peg, not a pegbolt). Using crimps, pull past the peg, and with one more tricky move, finish direct, at the top of the wall.

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