The weather… Oh, what a boring thing, don’t all climbers start writing with ‘And now the weather.’ Maybe we all want to be Michael Fish?
So, Louise Falls yesterday for day one. Jetlag, Budget car hire ripping us off running through my head, (It really messes with my head being ripped off for millions of pounds, note to myself, never use Budget again!) mixed weather (oh no, the W word) but thanks to local info (Cheers Jen) we drove over to Louise and walked in, and geared up and got excited. (even though I climbed L F eleven years ago for my second route ever in Canada)
I was tied on just about to start to climb and I noticed something critical missing from my attire… “Hmm, no crampons.” Trouble was I hadn’t seen them in my bag.
“Bugger,” For the first time ever I had forgotten my crampons and at that moment more than ever I need to swing an axe … “Please let them be in the car.”
A quick run back to the car and phew, there they were.
Ran back passing all of the folk we went past on the way out, ‘Yes I’m the chump who forgot his poons!’ Met Sean Isaac walking out with clients, “Hi Sean, yes I forgot my poons.” Met another guide, “Yes i know!”
But at last we climbed and ‘Oh,’ it was lush.
Once on top we rapped and lapped the right hand side with a different variation.
Warm up day one, yes, warm up … I had a look at climbing out of the back of the cave, “Yes Rob it’s a warm up honest.” Rob didn’t look convinced. But nearing the point of no reverse I noticed a massive crack running the width of the icicle… “Not today.”
Today we are about to go for a little walk for a look see and to punch a trail, The Trophy Wall looks as fat as I’ve ever seen it and the one climb of the big three I haven’t done, The Replicant, looks like it’s being eating donuts all winter, although the weather (Yeeeeeowes that bloody word, its dumping snow at the moment) and conditions may be a tad interesting, time, as ever, will tell.
Being in touch with Raphael Slawinski and Jen Olsen is a God send both of them being in the know and there advice was ‘Go for it’. Raph has also climbed a new route on the left of the wall so we may go for that also (But knowing Raph its M7 and that could mean anything.) and it doesnt worry me to repeat the Sea of Vapours and Terminator as they aren’t bad as ice climbs go )
All said and done if the snow keeps on we may have to re-arrange, but that big bad Trophy Wall beckons.
In semi-blizzard after much umming-and-arring we actually did walk half way in to the Trophy Wall. The snow was deep and blowing and wild and the situation for climbing will be a tad crazy so…