THE Headwall.

The Stanley Headwall. Nick Bullock.

The Stanley Headwall is the naughty child of Rockies climbing. Beautiful, endearing, but also at times a real pain in the backside. Avalanche prone slopes at the base, avalanche prone slopes above, avalanche prone roads on the approach. Though, get it in a good mood and there is no better behaved place where the climbing is most memorable.

An hour and a half ski-in, wild and wonderfully exposed, THE Headwall as it is known by the locals is world class.

Chopper Greenwood and I have just finished two days on THE Wall, where we climbed the classic icefall Nemesis and the testing Extreme Comfort and after a rest I can see at least one more days climbing before heading home, but I also can see the route we hope to climb (try) will spank us. We leave Canada on Sunday and Saturday will possibly be spent prone and exhausted, so its a case of do we or dont we, time, I suppose will tell.

Thanks to Jon Walsh and Raphael Slawinski for info and a little bit of homework for those who are interested here

Nemesis. Nick Bullock.



Rob Chopper Greenwood on the crux of Nemesis. Nick Bullock.


Nick Bullock following the second pitch of Nemesis. Rob Greenwood.


Extreme Comfort topo. Stanley Headwall. Nick Bullock.


Nick Bullock climbing the first pitch of Extreme Comfort, "I may take off my gloves!". Stanley Headwall. Rob Greenwood.


Rob Greenwood, pitch two of Extreme Comfort. "Its a bit of a tricky exit." Stanley Headwall. Nick Bullock.


"Its steeper than it looks." The third pitch of Extreme Comfort, (Monsieur Hulot.) Stanley Headwall. Rob Greenwood.


Rob Greenwood seconding the third pitch of Extreme Comfort. Nick Bullock.


"Its ok, the belay is good, its in the pillar that looks like it may fall down, but its good!" Rob Greenwood.


Rob Chopper, but not chopping too much, Greenwood on the top pitch of Extreme Comfort/Nightmare on Woolf St. Nick Bullock

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4 Responses to THE Headwall.

  1. Jack says:

    Where do I get some blue pyjamas like yours Bullhorn?

    Don’t break Chopper or I won’t have anyone to drag me up the mountain in October.

    Amazing trip, great photos. Didn’t bother to read all your waffle though.


    • Nick Bullock says:

      The blue pyjamas are courtesy of Mountain Equipment and to you Jack, full price, but you will at least look like me then!

      And no, please dont read my waffle, it may have an effect on your own writing and improve it 😉

      later mate xxx

  2. mum says:

    Sounds like u had great time. C u soon xx

  3. tony reynolds says:

    Totally inspiring Nick and by no means ‘talking Bullocks’!
    Way out of my league, but hoping for a longer winter out here next year and there might even be something to tempt you up at the Cirques et Sommets. Note to self: must buy some ‘broches’.

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