The Stanley Headwall is the naughty child of Rockies climbing. Beautiful, endearing, but also at times a real pain in the backside. Avalanche prone slopes at the base, avalanche prone slopes above, avalanche prone roads on the approach. Though, get it in a good mood and there is no better behaved place where the climbing is most memorable.
An hour and a half ski-in, wild and wonderfully exposed, THE Headwall as it is known by the locals is world class.
Chopper Greenwood and I have just finished two days on THE Wall, where we climbed the classic icefall Nemesis and the testing Extreme Comfort and after a rest I can see at least one more days climbing before heading home, but I also can see the route we hope to climb (try) will spank us. We leave Canada on Sunday and Saturday will possibly be spent prone and exhausted, so its a case of do we or dont we, time, I suppose will tell.
Thanks to Jon Walsh and Raphael Slawinski for info and a little bit of homework for those who are interested here